Rovio headlight, done right
After seeing many articles on how to make good/stock/awesome/… looking headlights for the WowWee Rovio, without actually looking that great, I decided to have a go at it myself.
To make the mount for the leds, I used my 3D printer and printed two parts that could be screwed together and hold the leds in front of the Rovio.
The result is pretty good, if I should say so, but there are still room for improvements.
Great! I want to make it too!
– Continue reading then 🙂
First we need a TIP127 which is a PNP transistor.
The reason we need a PNP is because the logic board in the rovio is using constant positive to the stock led, and then cuts the negative to it.
Next we attach two wires to the charging and power supply board inside the Rovio.
These wires are going to power the leds we put in front of the Rovio, and depending on how powerful they are, they might draw more current than the power supply can handle, so here I completely bypass it, and connects it almost directly to the battery. (Adding a fuse here would be a good thing to do, but had none on hand when I took this picture, might update later)
Make a second strip of wire, and pre-tin both of them so we can solder the transistor onto them.
The wire from the battery goes to the middle pin of the transistor, and the right pin goes out to the new leds.
The free pin to the left on the transistor is the one that will go out to the stock led, and is used to turn the new leds on and off. So to that leg I attach a smaller yellow wire.
Before we hide the transistor inside the Rovio, we need to insulate it. We need to do this both because the middle leg on the transistor is connected to the tap, and because the tap could make a short somewhere. So to do this I take a piece of heat shrink tubing, puts it over the tap and folds it backwards.
I then take a bigger piece of heat shrink tubing and slides over the transistor and the heat shrink tubing form the previous picture.
After some heat this will be a pretty secure and sealed package.
To easy make the new leds turn on and off, we connect it to the default led, so nothing will be changed when it comes to controlling the Rovio.
This is the back of the panel that holds the IR led, white led, and the IR receiver for the IR bumper.
The yellow wire from the transistor can now either be connected to the white wire on the little pcb, or to the right leg of the stock led. I connect it to the right leg of the led because it is easiest.
While you are working around with the panel in the front, you can also drill a hole at the bottom of the speaker panel, the wires will then come into the Rovio and be out of way both on the outside and on the inside.
Please notice, this guide does not cover how to attach the red and black wire to the leds. This is because you might use other leds, and then need other resistors. But out of the red and black wire, there will be 6.8V provided by the battery, when the stock led is turned on.
Attach the led mount with two counter sunken M3 screws.
And we are ready for action!
All we need now is a comparison!
STL files for the mount can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19689